MAKEUP CLASS 5 – LIP SHAPES
So your lips bring your whole face together when it comes to your makeup application, since its pretty much the last step to your face. It should be in harmony with your eyes, cheek color and foundation whilst giving vitality and lift your expression. Makeup is incomplete if the lips isn’t colored or glossed up. Only after lip color application, will your whole face be in harmony.
In this ‘class’ we will be covering these points:
- Application of lipstick
- Effects/desirable attributes of lipsticks
- Problems with lipsticks
- Lip shapes
The DEFINITION of lipstick:
Lip liner should be applied to the lips slowly and carefully no matter what color it is. Lips are a very tricky feature of the face since it isn’t equal or a firm shape, size or length. If the artist applies lip liner incorrectly it warps the whole look of the face and therefore give that unbalanced look. Once the lip liner has been applied, it should be finished off with a lipstick, lip gloss, lip tint etc. If the lip color seems too dark or too much, lips can be blotted with a piece of tissue, this helps to give it a more natural look and not so pasted on.
FULL LIPS should be toned down with softer colors since their full shape creates sufficient emphasis. IRREGULAR or NARROW lips can be disguised with brighter of more pearlier/glossy colors, this helps to fill out the lips, giving it a more obvious and fuller effect.
EFFECTS AND DESIRABLE ATTRIBUTES OF LIPSTICKS
- Draws attention
- Defines the lips
- Adds color to the lips
- Prevent lips from drying out and becoming chapped
- To correct lip ‘defects’
DESIRABLE ATTRIBUTES OF LIPSTICKS
- Must not be cake or flake the lips
- Easy to apply
- Stable and long-lasting
- Non toxic, non irritant and hypoallergenic
- Should provide moisture and protection
- Must have an even consistency, free from grittiness with a smooth even surface and uniform in color
- Must be stable under temperature changes
- Must not transfer easily from lips to object
TYPES OF LIPSTICK
- Lip gloss – shiney and moist
- Lip balm – its function is to protect lips from drying out
- Color stay – for long-lasting effect
- Creamy lipsticks – moist in texture and smooth
Intensity of lip color must balance the rest of the makeup. Working with soft but bright tones permits more improvement with the mouth shape and gives attention to the lips. Believe it or not, the texture of the lips may reduce or increase the apparent size of the mouth or improve the proportions thereof.
What a client wears for the function may help you with deciding on a color for the lips.
Time of day should be taken into consideration as with the rest of the makeup. Remember, like we’ve discussed in a previous ‘class’ that artificial light drains color and day light accentuates color.
PROBLEMS WITH LIPSTICKS
BLEEDING OF THE LIPS – this happens when the color spreads outwards over the lip lines into the natural skin creases, messing the whole outline. This happens because: body heat causes very creamy and glossy lipsticks and slightly ‘melt’. Fine vertical lines around the lips allow the lipstick to seep into them. This can be prevented by applying foundation and powder to the lips before applying lipstick.
LIPSTICK CHANGES COLOR – This happens when lipsticks contain a blue tone and of course darker tones and therefore it gets emphasized. Apply foundation onto the lips before applying lipstick.
LIPSTICK DRYING THE LIPS – This happens when lipstick contain frosted shades or the over use of fillers and binders in the ingredients. Avoid frosted shades and moisturize lips, esp in winter.
- TOP HEAVY LIPS
- BOTTOM HEAVY
- OVER LARGE LIPS\BOTTOM HEAVY LIPS
- THIN LIPS
- UNEVEN/ASSYMETRICAL LIPS
TOP HEAVY LIPS
Line lips keeping to the inside of the top and the outside of the bottom. Use a brighter shade of lip color on the bottom and a darker on the top to give the illusion of it receding to give it a ‘smaller’ look. OR you can apply the lip color to both the upper and lower lips and blend a dot of white into the center of the lower lip for a fuller look in the center.
BOTTOM HEAVY/OVERLARGE LIPS
The same rule applies with this lip shape as with the shape above, but the dot should now be applied on the upper lip. Get it? It’s the same, just ‘upside’ down.
Better to use a light lip color. Outline the mouth, staying just outside the natural lip line. Thinner lips can pull off the frosted colors, because they give that plumping effect.
Opt for softer colors with a early matte consistency, otherwise it can dominate the face. The lines should be even, but not too hard. Stay in the natural borders of the mouth. Effort should be made to make the face to deflect interest to the eyes and cheek bones, diminishing the importance of the lips with the overall effect.
UNEVEN OR SMALL LIPS
These lips can use matte and pearlised/glossy lipsticks to give the appearance of fullness to the center of the lips. Basically regulating the different lip shapes. Its impossible to make a small mouth appear larger by painting the borders without it appearing too obvious. However, skillful use of color can improve the general appearance considerably. Lighter and darker tones, cream and matte textured lip glosses and outlining lips with pencils are all elements of techniques available to make the artist produce attractive makeup applications.