And we’re back….
Right, so today we are talking facial shapes.
As a makeup artist, we have to assess our clients facial shape. See what we have to shade and highlight. We all have features on our face which we would like to camouflage and/or highlight. For instance, I have an oblong face. I basically look like a giraffe. But I’m ok with it, God made them too.. hehe.. I use shading and highlighting techniques to enhance my features I like most, and hide the parts I don’t like so much.
There are 7 basic facial shapes. Just remember, people are unique. Sometimes one person can have ‘parts’ of different facial shapes all in one. So don’t be worried if you can’t figure out which one you are at first. You might be a special combo!
The forehead and jaw are generally the same width with the sides being quite angular.
Shade the ‘corners’ of the face with a darker shade of foundation/blusher/bronzer
Arch the eyebrows
Lighten the centre of the forehead and chin. This centers the eye towards the middle of your face instead of paying too much attention on your “harsh” corners.
The round face has signs of full cheeks, rounded jaw and often a round hairline.
Shade the sides of the forehead, temples and the sides of the face with a darker foundation/blusher/bronzer.
Lighten the “apples” of the cheeks, but be sure to avoid the shaded section when applying the blusher on the apples.
Place the blusher in a triangle on the cheeks to level out the eyes.
Arch the eyebrows, and shorten their length.
Prominent features will be at the corners of the forehead and jaw line.
It’s pretty much a looooong version of the square face.
Shade around the hairline and the angles of the jaw.
Shade the chin if it’s the more prominent part or the forehead if it is larger. If you’re me, both!
Place the blusher under the outer corners of the eyes and out to the hairline.
Shape fine long eyebrows. This adds ‘sections’ to the face so it won’t be seen as one long surface.
The forehead and chin are narrow and the cheek bones are wide.
Shade the sides of the face with a darker foundation/blusher/bronzer.
Lighten the temples and angles of the jaw.
Arch the eyebrows.
5) TRIANGULAR/ PEAR SHAPED FACE
The forehead is narrow and the jaw line is wider than the cheekbones.
Shade the full jaw line starting at the bottom of the ears where the chin begins.
Highlight the narrow sides of the forehead including the temples.
6) HEART SHAPED
Also referred to as the inverted triangle. The forehead is wide and the cheekbones are prominent. The jaw and chin are narrow.
Shade across the wide sides of the forehead and the angles of the jaw.
Lighten the sides of the face and chin.
Place blusher low on the cheeks and sweep upwards.
Shape fine, long eyebrows and gently arch them. Eyebrows shouldn’t have too much of an arch effect as the facial shape provides enough dimensions.
The classic, perfectly proportioned face is balanced both horizontally and vertically. The shape is known as the cream of the crop. The best of all facial shapes. Aren’t’ you just lucky?
You don’t need to hide anything. You’ve got the perfect face.
Just a little highlighting here and there and voila. Babe of note!
APPLICATION DO’S AND DONT’S
- Use clean sterilized brushes for applying contour cosmetics.
- Apply powder with a soft, rounded brush.
- Flat, square ended brushes often produce demarcation lines, which is difficult to blend in with the surrounding makeup.
- Tap excess blusher off the brush onto a tissue before applying it to the face.
- Touching your clients face too much during the makeup application.
- Have a build up of the eye shadows, blushers, powders etc on your applicators. This distorts the true color due to interference of old makeup on your brushes.
- Leave your tray, lipsticks, brushes etc on your clients lap.
- Allow her to hold her own makeup, e.g. mascara or brushes.
WHY HIGHLIGHT AND SHADE???
ULTIMATELY YOU’RE TRYING TO GIVE OFF THE ILLUSION OF AN OVAL FACE SHAPE.