So the makeup application rule goes as follows:
Either make your eyes or your lips the focus point of your face. Not both at the same time. However, Samer Khouzami or Scott Barnes are makeup artists who know how to bring those two features together in the most cohesive and beautifully blended way.
This post is about the eyes. Now be warned, for most people who don’t use a lot of liner, don’t try this look if you’re not a heavy makeup user, or as your first day time experiment. I do this look often, but if you’re a minimalist, wait for an evening event, or practice on a weekend.
Right. Let’s start….
- Start with foundation.
- I contour the top of my forehead and my chin to ‘shorten’ my face as I have a long face.
- Define the cheekbones and I didn’t contour my nose on the side, but rather on the top. This is where the sun would naturally ‘tan’ your face. Gives it a less harsh contoured look.
- Blend out.
- Blend Blend Blend.
- Blend out.
- I applied my Kryolan foundation. To make a look ‘flawless’, brush your moisturised skin with some makeup powder, and then apply your foundation. This will make it stick and give it a more velvety look.
- After you’re done with the foundation, contouring and blending process. Set with the Derma Color Fixing Powder from Kryolan.
- Time to highlight the brow bone. Use a light shimmer or matt light color to do this.
- Highlight the inner corner of your eyes.
- With a round edge brush, simply add a warm brown shade in the crease of your eye. It must not look extremely contrasting, but rather make the color as ‘natural’ as possible.
- Move the brush from the inner crease corner out past your eye.
- Carry on with the crease color down under your bottom lash line.
- Time to line the eyes, I love to use the Kryolan paint pot with a tapered eye liner brush. Make sure its clean, so that it’ll make gliding a lot easier.
- Slightly pull your eyelid towards your hairline and start with the lining from the inner corner of your eye and with a steady hand, draw the line, going well past your eye. This takes practice, to make it look right. The trick is to have a light hand, more so than a steady one. Let your lashes guide you.
- At the end, don’t stop, pull the brush up and out. This will give it that ‘feathered’ look.
- Top lash line done.
- Now line your inner water line
- And apply liner under the lash line too, Starting from the inner corner out over connecting to the outer corner.
- Fill in between your lashes if need be to avoid empty spaces.
- Start with mascara, first on the top before applying it the conventional way from the inside. I first do this as it adds volume. I also move the brush around from all angles, ensuring that each lash is coated.
- Time for brow shaping, I like to brush my eyebrows before I shape them, which is what any makeup artist should do.
- Using a matt dark brown eye shadow, begin from the outer half of the brow and extend the brow line by using a tapered brush. I may have black hair, but I use a dark brown, as this doesn’t make the brows look too harsh or tattooed on.
- Now draw a line underneath the inner brow line.
- Blend that line upwards and make a neat brow shape.
- My next step is the lips, choose a subtle color, you can either use a lipstick, gloss or balm. As long as it has a slight shine to it. I believe a slight shine on the lips finishes the makeup look. You can have a full face of makeup, but if your lips are dry or untouched by some product, it throws the whole face off and comes off across as unfinished.
- Kryolan lipgloss.
- Topped with a bit of MAC lipstick.
- Start with the blush.
- You don’t have to make a funny fish face to apply your blush, because that it not how you look naturally. Throughout most of the day, you may have a slight smile, or serious face. That’s all you need. Sometimes if you ‘fish face’, you can distort the look once you relax your facial muscles.
- Start from the apple of the cheek up towards your ear.
- Lashes applied
There you have it.
This whole process probably takes me about half an hour, but I have done it in 20. BUT! If this is your first time and you’re not used to making long cat eye lining looks, I recommend you to practice!
Another tip to remember is not to use those normal liquid eye liners for this look. The liquid causes mistakes to happen quickly, opt for the paint pots and a brush. Its paste consistency works far better. There is more control with it. I only use liquid eye liner to cover the eyelash glue once its dry.
If you’re applying makeup on a client, make sure to smooth out the foundation to the ears and down the jaw to the neck line and set with powder. Take a photo, with a flash and without to see if some ‘blush’ is needed on those areas. You don’t want it to look like a mask.
Remember that you are working with your or someones face, so you are seeing the gradual change, but a photo shows you the instant end product. So take photos! Take selfies and judge it from there.