Happy Friday Amigo’s and Amiga’s
So today I had a request to help a dear friend with contouring.
So I thought, why just not make one whole post on it?
Makeup school taught us that the best face shape is the OVAL shape. It’s the ALMOND eyes (perfect eye shape) of the facial shapes. But not all of us have oval faces now do we?
Look, I see it like this. Everybody is perfect. I don’t actually like thinking “Oh this face needs some fixing, that ones’ jaw is too long”. We shouldn’t be complaining about our healthy bodies and faces. But, at the end of the day, it’s what we do. We judge and try to fix what ain’t broke. It’s human nature. I do however believe in enhancing features!
So anyway, let me get back to the whole CONTURING of the FACE SHAPES.
Makeup artists (MUA) know all about this ‘procedure‘. It’s pretty easy once you know what to do. The difference comes in with the techniques. Every makeup artist uses different methods to ultimately pull off the same effect.
Let’s look at some of the shapes and corrective techniques.
This is the OVAL face.
All you have to do it add a little highlighter over the forehead, chin and under the eyes.
But which products to use and how?
- You can add a highlighting cream before your foundation.
- Highlight after the foundation application with powder.
- Using a shimmer like powder on the areas shown above.
- Blending out foundation +-2 shades lighter than that of your skin tone.
There are SO many ways to highlight and contour your face. The trick is to find what suits YOU. Which method you prefer as a MUA. There aren’t really rules set in stone. The only way to find out whether your method worked or not is to do it, take a photo. With photos you’ll pick up on all the mistakes.
Which products do I use and how?
- Add a darker shade of foundation on all the ‘corners‘ of the face. Blend it damn it! Blend, blend and blend!
- Highlight the chin and forehead. This brings the area forward.
- Basically you want to make the illusion of an oval shape.
- You can use darker foundation to achieve this look, or you can use bronzing/contouring powder after your foundation application.
Usually with diamond faces, the cheek bones are the broadest part of the face. The chin sharply comes in towards the centre. Diamond faces also have a v-like hair-line by their foreheads.
- You want to “hide” your cheeks. As you can see in this picture. Basically you going to shape your face the “opposite“
- The chin and forehead are the smallest parts on the diamond face. So you want to highlight that to bring it forward.
- Hide all the prominent areas. In this instance, the cheek bones. Add a darker foundation and blend.
- Use a bronzer (matte) for a quick fix.
If you’re not a MUA, I’d suggest you apply foundation as per usual. Then contour your face using a darker powder. You do get special contouring products including brushes. Get a powder if you’re not used to all this calculating, or simply if you don’t have all the time in the world. For the highlighting part of it all, apply a quick dash of a shimmery powder (+-2 shades lighter) than that of your skin tone.
Ok, so you have a round face. This one usually needs a little more attention than the other face shapes. You basically have to see it as “putty” and you have to “sculpt” a shape to it. This isn’t a bad thing at all. Round faces usually end up looking really stunning!
- Shade down towards the sides of your face. This narrows your face. From the forehead down to the temples, and over the cheeks. I like to end it off going down the sides of the neck too.
- Highlight the centre of the face.
- BLEND BABY! You do not want to have visible demarcation lines!
Remember to not stop at the face! Carry on down the neck, even the neck area if need be! But never stop at the face. Even go over your ear lobes with the foundation and/or powder.
This here is MY face. This looooong giraffe like face! But hey, I’m cool with it. God made giraffes too!
- Apply the darker shade of foundation or powder over the chin.
- Apply blush.
- Usually you don’t need to “make cheekbones” with this facial shape as one may end up looking like a drag queen if you over do it! But luckily for me, I think drag queens are hot! I do give myself cheekbones at times. hehe
- Blush is so important for us long face gals. Gives the illusion that the face has dimension. That it’s not just one long thing staring at ya! It somewhat divides the face.
- Another thing I do with my face is adding darker foundation and/or powder over my forehead. I have a big forehead. So I like to shade my forehead and chin.
- Also, lengthening your brows out helps with oblong faces.
(Why the long face? hehe)
You also get the PEAR shape face. The pear face can either have the heavier part on top or at the bottom. Think of a normal pear and one upside down. Get it? Well, it’s easy to contour the pear face. You highlight the small areas and contour the wide areas. It applies for all the face shapes actually. You basically do the opposite of what your shape looks like. Easy peasy once you get the hang of it.
I personally use all the methods on highlighting and contouring. Applying the products before the foundation. After. Or just using powders to achieve the look. It all depends on my mood. They all work.
Go to your nearest M.A.C, INGLOT, BOBBI BROWN or any other professional makeup outlet which has a MUA on standby who can give you advice on which contouring products to buy. Explain how much time you spend on prepping your face. Don’t be shy!
Hope this helped.. Have questions? Email me or Fi on firstname.lastname@example.org
(Fi has done a post on facial contouring!!! Have a look and she what she says!)
We here to help… and learn.
ps: Go onto YouTube, type in "Contour face" or "Makeup Contouring" and voila! done deal!