Tag Archives: highlighting

Let’s Talk About Kontouring…

Hiya Poutlings

I am pretty sure the title of my heading has most of you NOT reading this post, but those of you that are brave enough to face what I have to say, well, I salute you, in the nude ūüėÄ

Kim Krapdashian has for some reason taken to Twitter to show her followers just how she pretends to be someone from the cast of the¬†Lion King draws a facelift on under makeup before an apparent¬†photo shoot…

Fascinating, isn’t it?

If it were anyone else I would be seriously congratulating their time and effort they have put into creating such a wonderful masterpiece. Contouring is not necessarily hard, it takes lots of patience and blending the shit outta your brushes, it takes someone who has patience to be able to put this facade everyday… someone like Kim.

Does the sight of the Krapdashian tongue and the thought of where it’s been make anyone else want to be boarded up in a nunnery for the rest of your life?


The end result is the caked face we’ve come to know and love or hate, depending on who you are….



Filed under Blush, Celebrities, Contour, Makeup, Media, Models, Social Networking, Twitter, WTF


And we’re back….

Right, so today we are talking facial shapes.

As a makeup artist, we have to assess our clients facial shape. ¬†See what we have to shade and highlight. ¬†We all have features on our face which we would like to camouflage and/or highlight. ¬†For instance, I have an oblong face. ¬†I basically look like a giraffe. ¬†But I’m ok with it, God made them too.. hehe.. I use shading and highlighting techniques to enhance my features I like most, and hide the parts I don’t like so much.

There are 7 basic facial shapes. ¬†Just remember, people are unique. ¬†Sometimes one person can have ‘parts’ of different facial shapes all in one. ¬†So don’t be worried if you can’t figure out which one you are at first. ¬†You might be a special combo!


The forehead and jaw are generally the same width with the sides being quite angular.

Shade the ‘corners’ of the face with a darker shade of foundation/blusher/bronzer

Arch the eyebrows

Lighten the centre of the forehead and chin. ¬†This centers the eye towards the middle of your face instead of paying too much attention on your “harsh” corners.


The round face has signs of full cheeks, rounded jaw and often a round hairline.

Shade the sides of the forehead, temples and the sides of the face with a darker foundation/blusher/bronzer.

Lighten the “apples” of the cheeks, but be sure to avoid the shaded section when applying the blusher on the apples.

Place the blusher in a triangle on the cheeks to level out the eyes.

Arch the eyebrows, and shorten their length.


Prominent features will be at the corners of the forehead and jaw line.

It’s pretty much a looooong version of the square face.

Shade around the hairline and the angles of the jaw.

Shade the chin if it’s the more prominent part or the forehead if it is larger. ¬†If you’re me, both!

Place the blusher under the outer corners of the eyes and out to the hairline.

Shape fine long eyebrows. ¬†This adds ‘sections’ to the face so it won’t be seen as one long surface.


The forehead and chin are narrow and the cheek bones are wide.

Shade the sides of the face with a darker foundation/blusher/bronzer.

Lighten the temples and angles of the jaw.

Arch the eyebrows.


The forehead is narrow and the jaw line is wider than the cheekbones.

Shade the full jaw line starting at the bottom of the ears where the chin begins.

Highlight the narrow sides of the forehead including the temples.


Also referred to as the inverted triangle.  The forehead is wide and the cheekbones are prominent.  The jaw and chin are narrow.

Shade across the wide sides of the forehead and the angles of the jaw.

Lighten the sides of the face and chin.

Place blusher low on the cheeks and sweep upwards.

Shape fine, long eyebrows and gently arch them. ¬†Eyebrows shouldn’t have too much of an arch effect as the facial shape provides enough dimensions.

7)  OVAL

The classic, perfectly proportioned face is balanced both horizontally and vertically. ¬†The shape is known as the cream of the crop. ¬†The best of all facial shapes. ¬†Aren’t’ you just lucky?

You don’t need to hide anything. ¬†You’ve got the perfect face.

Just a little highlighting here and there and voila.  Babe of note!



Do’s: ¬†

  • Use clean sterilized brushes for applying contour cosmetics.
  • Apply powder¬†with a soft, rounded brush.
  • Flat, square ended brushes often produce demarcation lines, which is difficult to blend in with the surrounding makeup.
  • Tap excess blusher off the brush onto a tissue before applying it to the face.
  • Touching your clients face too much during the makeup application.
  • Have a build up of the eye shadows, blushers, powders etc on your applicators. ¬†This distorts the true color due to interference of old makeup on your brushes.
  • Leave your tray, lipsticks, brushes etc on your clients lap.
  • Allow her to hold her own makeup, e.g. mascara or brushes.
This invisible veil gives and overall velvety soft appearance to the skin and helps prevent that shiny build up.  (Usually noticeable down the center T-zone area of the face)
A loose colourless powder with a fine translucent texture should be used for best results.
The colorless powder does not change the color of the foundation or blusher and can be used on any skin.
Using a powder brush is the only effective method of powder application.
A puff holds too much powder to be effective and a cotton ball has the tendency to leave fine threads of fuss behind.
To apply, pick up a small amounts of powder each time.  Shake before brushing onto the face.
Starting at the forehead, brushing with light downward strokes over the face, covering the eyes and lips (optional).
Avoid powder build-up particularly in the eye area, as this will emphasize the tiny lines that form around the outer eye.
Too much powder will also exaggerate creepiness on more mature skin.  If the powder  is visible then too much has been applied or the skin has not been moisturized properly.
Smooth finished soft look
Reduction of shine caused by sebum
It won’t look dull and lifeless
Always applied over foundation
And not have a clogged appearance


Well, I’m sure some people wonder what the point of highlighting and shading is…
Well, a darker and more matte tone “hides” a surface.
A shiny surface gives off the appearance that an object is closer than it may be.
For instance, when you in a small room, you would paint it a light color to give off the effect of space.
If you have a high ceiling in a room, you will most likely paint the ceiling a darker shade to bring the room in, giving it a more cozy effect.
The principles of paint in interior decorating pretty much works the same when it comes to makeup.
Shine/highlighting – brings forward/makes it a more focal point.
Matte/shading – hides the space or can bring it in all together.


So remember I told you in lesson 1 that this is what we were taught in makeup school and that I would add in my own opinion if ¬†need be. ¬†I agree with the corrective procedures, however practicing is key. ¬†Finding your own makeup application style is what is important. ¬†There are somethings you can’t change. ¬†You can’t apply powder before foundation. ¬†That would be silly, but some artists find it easier to first shade and highlight after foundation, yet before powder application.
Also you have to see which products you prefer using.  Some artists use foundations to highlight and shade, others use powders.  Some just use blushers.
Remember this: taking photos as you go along with a makeup application is important. ¬†Look at the picture, that way you’ll see if the face is coming out too white on photo or too orange. ¬†Remember eyeshadow color also usually looks different on photos taken with a flash. ¬†It’s more complicated than what most people think.
Remember to always brush off excess powder you may have applied under the eyes to prevent eyeshadow “dusting/fall out” while you applied eyeshadow.
Hope this post helped in one way or another..
If you have any questions, pop an email.  
(if I have forgotten anything, I apologize!  My eyes are tired and its late)
Remember to look at the other makeup ‘class’ posts:




Filed under Beauty, Blush, Celebrities, Contour, Daily Banter, Eyebrows, Foundation, Girly Stuff, Hair, Highlight, Makeup, Mistake, Oooh la la, Pro Tips, Products, Skin, Solutions


Happy Friday Amigo’s and Amiga’s

So today I had a request to help a dear friend with contouring.

So I thought, why just not make one whole post on it?

Makeup school taught us that the best face shape is the OVAL shape.¬† It’s the ALMOND eyes (perfect eye shape) of the facial shapes.¬† But not all of us have oval faces now do we?

Look, I see it like this.¬† Everybody is perfect.¬† I don’t actually like thinking ¬† “Oh this face needs some fixing, that ones’ jaw is too long”.¬† We shouldn’t be complaining about our healthy bodies and faces.¬† But, at the end of the day, it’s what we do.¬† We judge and try to fix what ain’t broke.¬†¬† It’s human nature.¬† I do however believe in enhancing features!

So anyway, let me get back to the whole  CONTURING of the FACE SHAPES.

Makeup artists (MUA) know all about this ‘procedure‘.¬† It’s pretty easy once you know what to do.¬† The difference comes in with the techniques.¬† Every makeup artist uses different methods to ultimately pull off the same effect.¬†¬†

Let’s look at some of the shapes and corrective techniques.


This is the OVAL face.

All you have to do it add a little highlighter over the forehead, chin and under the eyes. 

But which products to use and how?

  • You can add a highlighting cream before your foundation.
  • Highlight¬† after the foundation application with powder.
  • Using a shimmer like powder on the areas shown above.
  • Blending out foundation +-2 shades lighter than that of your skin tone.


There are SO many ways to highlight and contour your face.¬† The trick is to find what suits YOU.¬† Which method you prefer as a MUA.¬† There aren’t really rules set in stone.¬† The only way to find out whether your method worked or not is to do it, take a photo.¬† With photos you’ll pick up on all the mistakes.¬†



Which products do I use and how?

  • Add a darker shade of foundation on all the ‘corners‘ of the face.¬† Blend it damn it! Blend, blend and blend!¬†
  • Highlight the chin and forehead.¬† This brings the area forward.
  • Basically you want to make the illusion of an oval shape.
  • You can use darker foundation to achieve this look, or you can use bronzing/contouring powder after your foundation application.


Usually with diamond faces, the cheek bones are the broadest part of the face.  The chin sharply comes in towards the centre.  Diamond faces also have a v-like hair-line by their foreheads.

  • You want to “hide” your cheeks.¬† As you can see in this picture.¬† Basically you going to shape your face the “opposite
  • The chin and forehead are the smallest parts on the diamond face.¬† So you want to highlight that to bring it forward.
  • Hide all the prominent areas.¬† In this instance, the cheek bones.¬† Add a darker foundation and blend.
  • Use a bronzer (matte) for a quick fix.


If you’re not a MUA, I’d suggest you apply foundation as per usual.¬† Then contour your face using a darker powder.¬†¬† You do get special contouring products including brushes. ¬† Get a powder if you’re not used to all this calculating, or simply if you don’t have all the time in the world.¬† For the highlighting part of it all, apply a quick dash of a shimmery powder (+-2 shades lighter) than that of your skin tone.



Ok, so you have a round face.¬† This one usually needs a little more attention than the other face shapes.¬† You basically have to see it as “putty” and you have to “sculpt” a shape to it.¬† This isn’t a bad thing at all.¬† Round faces usually end up looking really stunning!

  • Shade down towards the sides of your face.¬† This narrows your face.¬† From the forehead down to the temples, and over the cheeks.¬† I like to end it off going down the sides of the neck too.
  • Highlight the centre of the face.
  • BLEND BABY!¬† You do not want to have visible demarcation lines!


Remember to not stop at the face!  Carry on down the neck, even the neck area if need be!  But never stop at the face.  Even go over your ear lobes with the foundation and/or powder.



This here is MY face.¬† This looooong giraffe like face!¬† But hey, I’m cool with it.¬† God made giraffes too!

  • Apply the darker shade of foundation or powder over the chin.
  • Apply blush.
  • Usually you don’t need to “make cheekbones” with this facial shape as one may end up looking like a drag queen if you over do it!¬† But luckily for me, I think drag queens are hot!¬† I do give myself cheekbones at times. hehe
  • Blush is so important for us long face gals.¬† Gives the illusion that the face has dimension.¬† That it’s not just one long thing staring at ya!¬† It somewhat divides the face.
  • Another thing I do with my face is adding darker foundation and/or powder over my forehead.¬† I have a big forehead.¬† So I like to shade my forehead and chin.
  • Also, lengthening your brows out helps with oblong faces.

(Why the long face? hehe)

You also get the PEAR shape face.¬† The pear face can either have the heavier part on top or at the bottom.¬† Think of a normal pear and one upside down.¬† Get it?¬† Well, it’s easy to contour the pear face.¬† You highlight the small areas and contour the wide areas.¬† It applies for all the face shapes actually.¬† You basically do the opposite of what your shape looks like.¬† Easy peasy once you get the hang of it.


I personally use all the methods on highlighting and contouring.  Applying the products before the foundation.  After.  Or just using powders to achieve the look.  It all depends on my mood.  They all work. 


Go to your nearest M.A.C, INGLOT, BOBBI BROWN or any other professional makeup outlet which has a MUA on standby who can give you advice on which contouring products to buy.¬† Explain how much time you spend on prepping your face.¬† Don’t be shy!¬†


Hope this helped..   Have questions?  Email me or Fi on poutperfection@gmail.com

(Fi has done a post on facial contouring!!!  Have a look and she what she says!)

We here to help… and learn.

ps:  Go onto YouTube, type in "Contour face" or "Makeup Contouring" and voila!  done deal!




Filed under Beauty, Blush, Contour, Daily Banter, Eyebrows, Eyes, Foundation, Health, Highlight, Life as a Makeup Artist, Makeup, Media, Photography, Pro Tips, Solutions, Trends

How to: Makeup Highlighting….

So, Poutlings have you discovered the one and only wonder that is highlighting your face with a dash of makeup here, a touch there to completely transform your look in just a couple of strokes by accentuating cheek bones and making your nose look smaller? If you haven’t I suggest you get your notepads out and start paying attention immediately!

Start by applying your foundation first after cleansing and moisturising your skin. This will help your skin have the smooth, translucent surface to apply your highligher.

If you look at the picture I added above, if you blur your eyes while looking at it, you will get the idea of what the finished product will look like, with highlighting and contouring. (This is highlighting/contouring with foundation, not powder like mentioned in my blog post below).

  • Using your powder brush, lightly apply highlighter to the area just above your cheekbones to enhance them and make them appear more prominent. The key is to apply highlighter with a light touch so that it doesn‚Äôt look harsh or obvious. Too much highlighter can make you look like a clown. Practice until you can apply it without leaving a border the size of the Zimbabwe one. Do you have a wide nose? Apply highlighter down the center of your nose and a darker shade of makeup subtly along the edges. If you have a weak chin, apply highlighter lightly to the tip of your chin to visually bring it forward, causing it to appear more prominent.
  • Highlighters comes in a variety of forms¬†but for the highlighting beginner, I would suggest to use a powder form. It also tends to give the most natural look. To apply the the highligher to your face, I suggest using a large powder/ kabuki / blush brush.
  • Once you‚Äôve applied highlighter above your cheekbones, apply a light application of blush directly to your cheekbones. Your cheekbones should appear more pronounced from the contrast of the colored blush next to the highlighter.
  • Now that you‚Äôve contoured your face with highlighter and applied blush, lightly apply a layer of translucent loose powder over the entire surface of your face. This will reduce shine and help to set your facial contouring.

    You’re now ready to face the world with your freshly highlighted and contoured face.



Filed under Beauty, Blush, Contour, Makeup