Tag Archives: makeup class

MAKEUP CLASS 5 – ALL ABOUT LIP SHAPES

MAKEUP CLASS 5 – LIP SHAPES

So your lips bring your whole face together when it comes to your makeup application, since its pretty much the last step to your face.  It should be in harmony with your eyes, cheek color and foundation whilst giving vitality and lift your expression.  Makeup is incomplete if the lips isn’t colored or glossed up.  Only after lip color application, will your whole face be in harmony.

In this ‘class’ we will be covering these points:

  • Application of lipstick
  • Effects/desirable attributes of lipsticks
  • Problems with lipsticks
  • Lip shapes

 The DEFINITION of lipstick:

Lip liner should be applied to the lips slowly and carefully no matter what color it is.  Lips are a very tricky feature of the face since it isn’t equal or a firm shape, size or length.  If the artist applies lip liner incorrectly it warps the whole look of the face and therefore give that unbalanced look.  Once the lip liner has been applied, it should be finished off with a lipstick, lip gloss, lip tint etc.  If the lip color seems too dark or too much, lips can be blotted with a piece of tissue, this helps to give it a more natural look and not so pasted on.

FULL LIPS should be toned down with softer colors since their full shape creates sufficient emphasis.  IRREGULAR or NARROW lips can be disguised with brighter of more pearlier/glossy colors, this helps to fill out the lips, giving it a more obvious and fuller effect.

 EFFECTS AND DESIRABLE ATTRIBUTES OF LIPSTICKS

  • Draws attention
  • Defines the lips
  • Adds color to the lips
  • Prevent lips from drying out and becoming chapped
  • To correct lip ‘defects’

 DESIRABLE ATTRIBUTES OF LIPSTICKS

  • Must not be cake or flake the lips
  • Easy to apply
  • Stable and long-lasting
  • Non toxic, non irritant and hypoallergenic
  • Should provide moisture and protection
  • Must have an even consistency, free from grittiness with a smooth even surface and uniform in color
  • Must be stable under temperature changes
  • Must not transfer easily from lips to object

 TYPES OF LIPSTICK

  • Lip gloss – shiney and moist
  • Lip balm – its function is to protect lips from drying out
  • Color stay – for long-lasting effect
  • Creamy lipsticks – moist in texture and smooth

 LIPSTICK CHOICE

Intensity of lip color must balance the rest of the makeup.  Working with soft but bright tones permits more improvement with the mouth shape and gives attention to the lips.  Believe it or not, the texture of the lips may reduce or increase the apparent size of the mouth or improve the proportions thereof.

What a client wears for the function may help you with deciding on a color for the lips.

Time of day should be taken into consideration as with the rest of the makeup.  Remember, like we’ve discussed in a previous ‘class’ that artificial light drains color and day light accentuates color.

 PROBLEMS WITH LIPSTICKS

BLEEDING OF THE LIPS – this happens when the color spreads outwards over the lip lines into the natural skin creases, messing the whole outline.  This happens because:  body heat causes very creamy and glossy lipsticks and slightly ‘melt’.  Fine vertical lines around the lips allow the lipstick to seep into them.  This can be prevented by applying foundation and powder to the lips before applying lipstick.

LIPSTICK CHANGES COLOR – This happens when lipsticks contain a blue tone and of course darker tones and therefore it gets emphasized.  Apply foundation onto the lips before applying lipstick.

LIPSTICK DRYING THE LIPS – This happens when lipstick contain frosted shades or the over use of fillers and binders in the ingredients.  Avoid frosted shades and moisturize lips, esp in winter.

 LIP SHAPES

  • TOP HEAVY LIPS
  • BOTTOM HEAVY
  • OVER LARGE LIPS\BOTTOM HEAVY LIPS
  • THIN LIPS
  • UNEVEN/ASSYMETRICAL LIPS

 TOP HEAVY LIPS

Line lips keeping to the inside of the top and the outside of the bottom.  Use a brighter shade of lip color on the bottom and a darker on the top to give the illusion of it receding to give it a ‘smaller’ look.  OR you can apply the lip color to both the upper and lower lips and blend a dot of white into the center of the lower lip for a fuller look in the center.

 BOTTOM HEAVY/OVERLARGE LIPS

The same rule applies with this lip shape as with the shape above, but the dot should now be applied on the upper lip.  Get it?  It’s the same, just ‘upside’ down.

 THIN LIPS

Better to use a light lip color.  Outline the mouth, staying just outside the natural lip line.  Thinner lips can pull off the frosted colors, because they give that plumping effect.

 OVERLARGE LIPS

Opt for softer colors with a early matte consistency, otherwise it can dominate the face.  The lines should be even, but not too hard.  Stay in the natural borders of the mouth.  Effort should be made to make the face to deflect interest to the eyes and cheek bones, diminishing the importance of the lips with the overall effect.

 UNEVEN OR SMALL LIPS

These lips can use matte and pearlised/glossy lipsticks to give the appearance of fullness to the center of the lips.  Basically regulating the different lip shapes.  Its impossible to make a small mouth appear larger by painting the borders without it appearing too obvious.  However,  skillful use of color can improve the general appearance considerably.  Lighter and darker tones, cream and matte textured lip glosses and outlining lips with pencils are all elements of techniques available to make the artist produce attractive makeup applications.

 Last tip…  If you want to accentuate your lips, do so and keep the eyes simple and vice versa.
 
Hope that this post helped you with your lippy issues.

MuchLuv

Sandylashxx

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ESSENTIAL TOOLS FOR MAKEUP and the MUA

THE ESSENTIAL MAKEUP KIT

First and foremost, makeup should be TIMELESS!  There is no point in sticking to a style just because it’s in right now.  Yes, its important to evolve and catch up with the times, but just like in fashion, some things just never go out of fashion!

May it be that little black dress, flesh toned heels, a stylish handbag, a pearl necklace, crisp white shirt or dress and so forth.

Makeup has pretty much the same principle.  There are just certain styles or applications of makeup that will never fail us.   Just like any other profession, makeup takes practice!  Doesn’t matter how experienced a makeup artist is, there will be times we have to redo a whole look from scratch.

Lets look at the ESSENTIALS of a MAKEUP KIT:

In order to do the right makeup, a MUA needs the right tools in order to do so.  You are only as good as the tools you use!  Brushes being the most important tools for a makeup artist!

*Brushes

Are the most important tools for the MUA!

*Black mascara

To be used with a clean wand or comb on standby.  Have more than 3!  However, if you or your client have very light lashes and brows, opt for a dark brown.  Enhancing is key, not being something you’re not.

*Bicarbonate of soda

Bicarb of soda can be used as a ‘cleaning agent’.  Prep your skin with it once a week as an exfoliant.  Take a teaspoon of the soda and add a cleanser of your choice, most MUA’s love Cetaphil.  Don’t do this if you do chemical peels or you’re sunburnt.  This is just a very easy and non invasive way to exfoliate your skin if you’re a busy gal and need to just get those dead skin cells off your face.

Another great thing about bicarbonate is that you can brush your teeth with it!  Try it, you won’t believe how much ‘dirt’ it takes out of your mouth!  It kills germs and is recommended by dentists.

*Makeup primer

Primers have extra silicone and glycerin, allowing foundation to be applied smoother and more evenly.  Some schools would teach us to use a moisturizer first and follow with the primer.  However, it’s not a mess up if you used one without the other.

*Black pencil

Personally my most important tool for the eye, you can smudge with it, apply into the inner eyeline, the outer to create all sorts of looks!  Please invest in a good quality black pencil, I’ve noticed the cheaper they are, the more likely they are hard and you tend to hurt your skin!  Smoulder from MAC is just fantastic!

*Highlighter

To emphasize certain parts of the face like the brow bones, cheek bones, chin etc.

*Cream blush

Creamy blushes are great if you’re not into powder on your face.  If you don’t like to use too much makeup such as foundation or loose powder, or if you’re simply a teen, a cream blush is the way to go!  It’s definitely for the woman on the run or that makeup minimalist.  Make sure your skin is hydrated though or you’ll be on a blending mission of note.

*Eyelash curlers

If you ‘suffer’ from very straight lashes, then the eyelash curler is a must have.  Just make sure you curl your lashes before applying your mascara, as the mascara can heap up on the rubbers and can actually pull a lash off or two.  Keep it very clean!  It immediately opens your eyes up though.  Keep in clenched for about 5-10 seconds!  There are heated eyelash curlers on the market, which I have and is battery operated.  If you can, get both and see which one you prefer.  If you’re an artist, have both. Some clients are not comfortable with the usual eyelash curler.

*Translucent powder

Right, if you use this, make sure it doesn’t have titanium dioxide, as it will reflect with a camera flash.  The reason why we artists like translucent powder is because we apply a ‘thickish’ amount under the eyes when applying eyeshadow to then easily brush off the eyeshadow fall-out.

*Foundations

More than one tone for YOURSELF!  And obviously A LOT if you’re an artist!  Reason why you yourself should have more than one tone, well that’s because in winter you are lighter than you are in summer.  Plus, in the transition of the seasons, you can mix small amounts of the two for that perfect tone.

*Concealer

EVERYONE needs a concealer.  Can help with discoloration, blemishes, bags and pigmentation etc.

*Contouring creams or shadows

For shading (to build cheekbones)  Not everyone can use them and I wouldn’t suggest the normal lady to use it on a day-to-day basis, but as for you artists, LEARN how to use it!  It makes a huge difference!

*Lip gloss and lipsticks

You should have:  nude lipstick, clear lip gloss, a signature color, tinted lip gloss, a gold shimmery gloss, and of course a red lipstick!  What every you get after all these essentials are bonuses!

*Gold and silver shimmer powder (pigments)

Used to highlight the eyes, cheeks and lips.  They give that glow and can enhance features stunningly!  Gold is more for the warmer tones skins and silver is of course for the more cool-toned skins.

*Powder blush

Use if you have a powdered foundation.  Remember, powder sticks to powder and creams stick to creams!  Lips2lashes MUA Natalie Camara tip!!!  Applies to application of shadows or creams on eyes.

*Cotton pads

You can use cotton pads to apply powder, brush powder off or rest your fingers on the clients face when applying makeup.  Plus, they’re inexpensive and way more hygienic as you just throw them away after use.

*Cotton buds

Removing that ‘mistake’ you made with that eyeliner or mascara.

*Eyeshadows

So you at the testing counter and you see a shadow that you fancy.  Here is a tip, if you wipe your finger over the product and it still looks exactly the same then its great quality.  If it changes or looks slightly lighter, don’t buy it.  It only means it won’t last on your face.  Don’t use products which face from product to finger to face on a client.  Ever!  Invest in better shadows which will last the whole day!

*Tweezers

Some clients need to be pruned!  Although it isn’t really an artists job to do so, advise your client to have her brows shaped by a beautician before coming to you.  But have one, just in case.  Some clients have furry, skin toned and tiny hairs which only make themselves apparent when eyeshadow is applied!  Another tip is to get baby gum numbing gel and apply a bit onto the part you want to tweeze minutes before you do.  This will ‘numb’ the area slightly.  If its good for babies gums, it should be good for a tiny area on your brows.

*Inner white pencil/ white eyeliner

Used to make your eye look larger when applied on the inner eye, makes you look younger and slightly more awake.  Make sure it isn’t waterproof as your inner eye isn’t dry.  The only ‘waterproof’ item you should have is mascara for that bridal application.  Them brides shed tears!

*Eyebrow pencils

Use one that matches you or your clients brows!  A great tip to remember is applying a lighter shade than that of your own in the inner part of your brows, going darker on the outer parts.  This is way more natural looking and doesn’t look so harsh.

*Moisturizer

I absolutely love and adore THE BEAUTY FACTORY’S products!  You just cannot go wrong with a moisturizer from them.  (Woodlands Mall, Pretoria, South Africa)

*Makeup box

I have a MAC makeup box!  Oh how I love it!  Although, I’ll need another box pretty soon.  As an artist, you should never rock up for a job with an unorganized box or have the items thrown in a bag!  Not only does it make you look unprofessional, but you’ll take more time finding the makeup and tools than actually applying it all on your clients face!  #fail

So these are pretty much the ESSENTIALS or BASICS for a makeup artist and of course if you’re just a lover of makeup yourself.  If you are a minimalist regarding makeup, you probably won’t be buying half of these things.  But they do help at the end of the day.  

Stay tuned for more ‘classes and makeup tips’ on our blog as I will be posting more.

MuchLuv♥

Sandylashxx

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