Tag Archives: MUA

ESSENTIAL TOOLS FOR MAKEUP and the MUA

THE ESSENTIAL MAKEUP KIT

First and foremost, makeup should be TIMELESS!  There is no point in sticking to a style just because it’s in right now.  Yes, its important to evolve and catch up with the times, but just like in fashion, some things just never go out of fashion!

May it be that little black dress, flesh toned heels, a stylish handbag, a pearl necklace, crisp white shirt or dress and so forth.

Makeup has pretty much the same principle.  There are just certain styles or applications of makeup that will never fail us.   Just like any other profession, makeup takes practice!  Doesn’t matter how experienced a makeup artist is, there will be times we have to redo a whole look from scratch.

Lets look at the ESSENTIALS of a MAKEUP KIT:

In order to do the right makeup, a MUA needs the right tools in order to do so.  You are only as good as the tools you use!  Brushes being the most important tools for a makeup artist!

*Brushes

Are the most important tools for the MUA!

*Black mascara

To be used with a clean wand or comb on standby.  Have more than 3!  However, if you or your client have very light lashes and brows, opt for a dark brown.  Enhancing is key, not being something you’re not.

*Bicarbonate of soda

Bicarb of soda can be used as a ‘cleaning agent’.  Prep your skin with it once a week as an exfoliant.  Take a teaspoon of the soda and add a cleanser of your choice, most MUA’s love Cetaphil.  Don’t do this if you do chemical peels or you’re sunburnt.  This is just a very easy and non invasive way to exfoliate your skin if you’re a busy gal and need to just get those dead skin cells off your face.

Another great thing about bicarbonate is that you can brush your teeth with it!  Try it, you won’t believe how much ‘dirt’ it takes out of your mouth!  It kills germs and is recommended by dentists.

*Makeup primer

Primers have extra silicone and glycerin, allowing foundation to be applied smoother and more evenly.  Some schools would teach us to use a moisturizer first and follow with the primer.  However, it’s not a mess up if you used one without the other.

*Black pencil

Personally my most important tool for the eye, you can smudge with it, apply into the inner eyeline, the outer to create all sorts of looks!  Please invest in a good quality black pencil, I’ve noticed the cheaper they are, the more likely they are hard and you tend to hurt your skin!  Smoulder from MAC is just fantastic!

*Highlighter

To emphasize certain parts of the face like the brow bones, cheek bones, chin etc.

*Cream blush

Creamy blushes are great if you’re not into powder on your face.  If you don’t like to use too much makeup such as foundation or loose powder, or if you’re simply a teen, a cream blush is the way to go!  It’s definitely for the woman on the run or that makeup minimalist.  Make sure your skin is hydrated though or you’ll be on a blending mission of note.

*Eyelash curlers

If you ‘suffer’ from very straight lashes, then the eyelash curler is a must have.  Just make sure you curl your lashes before applying your mascara, as the mascara can heap up on the rubbers and can actually pull a lash off or two.  Keep it very clean!  It immediately opens your eyes up though.  Keep in clenched for about 5-10 seconds!  There are heated eyelash curlers on the market, which I have and is battery operated.  If you can, get both and see which one you prefer.  If you’re an artist, have both. Some clients are not comfortable with the usual eyelash curler.

*Translucent powder

Right, if you use this, make sure it doesn’t have titanium dioxide, as it will reflect with a camera flash.  The reason why we artists like translucent powder is because we apply a ‘thickish’ amount under the eyes when applying eyeshadow to then easily brush off the eyeshadow fall-out.

*Foundations

More than one tone for YOURSELF!  And obviously A LOT if you’re an artist!  Reason why you yourself should have more than one tone, well that’s because in winter you are lighter than you are in summer.  Plus, in the transition of the seasons, you can mix small amounts of the two for that perfect tone.

*Concealer

EVERYONE needs a concealer.  Can help with discoloration, blemishes, bags and pigmentation etc.

*Contouring creams or shadows

For shading (to build cheekbones)  Not everyone can use them and I wouldn’t suggest the normal lady to use it on a day-to-day basis, but as for you artists, LEARN how to use it!  It makes a huge difference!

*Lip gloss and lipsticks

You should have:  nude lipstick, clear lip gloss, a signature color, tinted lip gloss, a gold shimmery gloss, and of course a red lipstick!  What every you get after all these essentials are bonuses!

*Gold and silver shimmer powder (pigments)

Used to highlight the eyes, cheeks and lips.  They give that glow and can enhance features stunningly!  Gold is more for the warmer tones skins and silver is of course for the more cool-toned skins.

*Powder blush

Use if you have a powdered foundation.  Remember, powder sticks to powder and creams stick to creams!  Lips2lashes MUA Natalie Camara tip!!!  Applies to application of shadows or creams on eyes.

*Cotton pads

You can use cotton pads to apply powder, brush powder off or rest your fingers on the clients face when applying makeup.  Plus, they’re inexpensive and way more hygienic as you just throw them away after use.

*Cotton buds

Removing that ‘mistake’ you made with that eyeliner or mascara.

*Eyeshadows

So you at the testing counter and you see a shadow that you fancy.  Here is a tip, if you wipe your finger over the product and it still looks exactly the same then its great quality.  If it changes or looks slightly lighter, don’t buy it.  It only means it won’t last on your face.  Don’t use products which face from product to finger to face on a client.  Ever!  Invest in better shadows which will last the whole day!

*Tweezers

Some clients need to be pruned!  Although it isn’t really an artists job to do so, advise your client to have her brows shaped by a beautician before coming to you.  But have one, just in case.  Some clients have furry, skin toned and tiny hairs which only make themselves apparent when eyeshadow is applied!  Another tip is to get baby gum numbing gel and apply a bit onto the part you want to tweeze minutes before you do.  This will ‘numb’ the area slightly.  If its good for babies gums, it should be good for a tiny area on your brows.

*Inner white pencil/ white eyeliner

Used to make your eye look larger when applied on the inner eye, makes you look younger and slightly more awake.  Make sure it isn’t waterproof as your inner eye isn’t dry.  The only ‘waterproof’ item you should have is mascara for that bridal application.  Them brides shed tears!

*Eyebrow pencils

Use one that matches you or your clients brows!  A great tip to remember is applying a lighter shade than that of your own in the inner part of your brows, going darker on the outer parts.  This is way more natural looking and doesn’t look so harsh.

*Moisturizer

I absolutely love and adore THE BEAUTY FACTORY’S products!  You just cannot go wrong with a moisturizer from them.  (Woodlands Mall, Pretoria, South Africa)

*Makeup box

I have a MAC makeup box!  Oh how I love it!  Although, I’ll need another box pretty soon.  As an artist, you should never rock up for a job with an unorganized box or have the items thrown in a bag!  Not only does it make you look unprofessional, but you’ll take more time finding the makeup and tools than actually applying it all on your clients face!  #fail

So these are pretty much the ESSENTIALS or BASICS for a makeup artist and of course if you’re just a lover of makeup yourself.  If you are a minimalist regarding makeup, you probably won’t be buying half of these things.  But they do help at the end of the day.  

Stay tuned for more ‘classes and makeup tips’ on our blog as I will be posting more.

MuchLuv♥

Sandylashxx

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REQUEST – CONTOURING THE FACE

Happy Friday Amigo’s and Amiga’s

So today I had a request to help a dear friend with contouring.

So I thought, why just not make one whole post on it?

Makeup school taught us that the best face shape is the OVAL shape.  It’s the ALMOND eyes (perfect eye shape) of the facial shapes.  But not all of us have oval faces now do we?

Look, I see it like this.  Everybody is perfect.  I don’t actually like thinking   “Oh this face needs some fixing, that ones’ jaw is too long”.  We shouldn’t be complaining about our healthy bodies and faces.  But, at the end of the day, it’s what we do.  We judge and try to fix what ain’t broke.   It’s human nature.  I do however believe in enhancing features!

So anyway, let me get back to the whole  CONTURING of the FACE SHAPES.

Makeup artists (MUA) know all about this ‘procedure‘.  It’s pretty easy once you know what to do.  The difference comes in with the techniques.  Every makeup artist uses different methods to ultimately pull off the same effect.  

Let’s look at some of the shapes and corrective techniques.

This is the OVAL face.

All you have to do it add a little highlighter over the forehead, chin and under the eyes. 

But which products to use and how?

  • You can add a highlighting cream before your foundation.
  • Highlight  after the foundation application with powder.
  • Using a shimmer like powder on the areas shown above.
  • Blending out foundation +-2 shades lighter than that of your skin tone.

There are SO many ways to highlight and contour your face.  The trick is to find what suits YOU.  Which method you prefer as a MUA.  There aren’t really rules set in stone.  The only way to find out whether your method worked or not is to do it, take a photo.  With photos you’ll pick up on all the mistakes

SQUARE

Which products do I use and how?

  • Add a darker shade of foundation on all the ‘corners‘ of the face.  Blend it damn it! Blend, blend and blend! 
  • Highlight the chin and forehead.  This brings the area forward.
  • Basically you want to make the illusion of an oval shape.
  • You can use darker foundation to achieve this look, or you can use bronzing/contouring powder after your foundation application.

DIAMOND

Usually with diamond faces, the cheek bones are the broadest part of the face.  The chin sharply comes in towards the centre.  Diamond faces also have a v-like hair-line by their foreheads.

  • You want to “hide” your cheeks.  As you can see in this picture.  Basically you going to shape your face the “opposite
  • The chin and forehead are the smallest parts on the diamond face.  So you want to highlight that to bring it forward.
  • Hide all the prominent areas.  In this instance, the cheek bones.  Add a darker foundation and blend.
  • Use a bronzer (matte) for a quick fix.

If you’re not a MUA, I’d suggest you apply foundation as per usual.  Then contour your face using a darker powder.   You do get special contouring products including brushes.   Get a powder if you’re not used to all this calculating, or simply if you don’t have all the time in the world.  For the highlighting part of it all, apply a quick dash of a shimmery powder (+-2 shades lighter) than that of your skin tone.

ROUND FACE

Ok, so you have a round face.  This one usually needs a little more attention than the other face shapes.  You basically have to see it as “putty” and you have to “sculpt” a shape to it.  This isn’t a bad thing at all.  Round faces usually end up looking really stunning!

  • Shade down towards the sides of your face.  This narrows your face.  From the forehead down to the temples, and over the cheeks.  I like to end it off going down the sides of the neck too.
  • Highlight the centre of the face.
  • BLEND BABY!  You do not want to have visible demarcation lines!

Remember to not stop at the face!  Carry on down the neck, even the neck area if need be!  But never stop at the face.  Even go over your ear lobes with the foundation and/or powder.

OBLONG/RECTANGULAR

This here is MY face.  This looooong giraffe like face!  But hey, I’m cool with it.  God made giraffes too!

  • Apply the darker shade of foundation or powder over the chin.
  • Apply blush.
  • Usually you don’t need to “make cheekbones” with this facial shape as one may end up looking like a drag queen if you over do it!  But luckily for me, I think drag queens are hot!  I do give myself cheekbones at times. hehe
  • Blush is so important for us long face gals.  Gives the illusion that the face has dimension.  That it’s not just one long thing staring at ya!  It somewhat divides the face.
  • Another thing I do with my face is adding darker foundation and/or powder over my forehead.  I have a big forehead.  So I like to shade my forehead and chin.
  • Also, lengthening your brows out helps with oblong faces.

(Why the long face? hehe)

You also get the PEAR shape face.  The pear face can either have the heavier part on top or at the bottom.  Think of a normal pear and one upside down.  Get it?  Well, it’s easy to contour the pear face.  You highlight the small areas and contour the wide areas.  It applies for all the face shapes actually.  You basically do the opposite of what your shape looks like.  Easy peasy once you get the hang of it.

I personally use all the methods on highlighting and contouring.  Applying the products before the foundation.  After.  Or just using powders to achieve the look.  It all depends on my mood.  They all work. 

Go to your nearest M.A.C, INGLOT, BOBBI BROWN or any other professional makeup outlet which has a MUA on standby who can give you advice on which contouring products to buy.  Explain how much time you spend on prepping your face.  Don’t be shy! 

Hope this helped..   Have questions?  Email me or Fi on poutperfection@gmail.com

(Fi has done a post on facial contouring!!!  Have a look and she what she says!)

We here to help… and learn.

ps:  Go onto YouTube, type in "Contour face" or "Makeup Contouring" and voila!  done deal!

MuchLuv♥

Sandylashxx

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