Ready for the next Sandylashxx class?
Let’s get straight into it.
Todays “lesson” is about EYE SHAPES
The books would tell you: The principal of emphasizing, bringing forward into prominence, and diminishing or move back with light or dark tones can be used for your advantage to improve difficult or irregularly shaped eyes. Use of vibrant colors, tones of the shades picked and contrasting textures enable the skillful makeup artist to correct or deflect interest from the eye’s fault.
The profile and frontal view of the eyes should always be considered and difficult eyes not seen as a fault, rather as a challenge to present to their best advantage.
Eyes may be emphasized, enlarged and opened with ivory colored highlighters for evening or fashion effects, and with white shader for photographic work.
SEVERAL FORMS OF EYESHADOW
- CREAM, OIL BASED – It spreads easily and blends well, but it needs to be set with a powder.
- POWDER – Compressed powder with added moisturizer providing a ‘cling’. It’s staying power is good, but it may feel tight on very dry skin.
- WATER COLORS – A cake eyeshadow applied with a wet brush to give long-lasting finish, with depth of color stronger than that of powder.
- CRAYONS AND PENCILS – Soft wax pencils which are easy to apply without dragging the skin, but needs to be blended very well.
THERE ARE 8 DIFFERENT EYE SHAPES.
1) DEEP SET EYES
The eyes may be brought forward with a pale or pearl color, blended in an oval around the upper and lower lids. The overhanging brow bone should be shaded as a fine line spreading to wing along the crease. The arch of the brow can be emphasized with a white or cream-colored pearl shadow, also repeated in the center of the lid. Usually no eyeliner is needed, but a fine pointed upper and lower false lashes may be applied for increased definition on a younger client.
2) ROUNDED EYES
The entire upper lid may be highlighted with a pale tone. In a full lid socket emphasis may be softly applied to form a sweeping curve, echoing the brow line. A fine dark line, or more brightly colored shadow line can be applied close to the lashes. The arched line of the brow can be accentuated with a pearl white or ivory toned highlighter. A medium tone of the general shade may be applied at the outer corner to lengthen the eye shape and give an attractive profile appearance.
3) SMALL EYES
Color the entire lid with a bright but soft tone to enlarge the eye area. Accentuate the center lid area with a more definite and slightly contrasting shade, blending in to give fullness to the lid. Echo the brow line with a soft sweep of color in a deeper but harmonizing shade. The outer lashes may be emphasized with mascara and for the younger client, false lashes may be applied to the outer corner.
4) ORIENTAL EYES
Commonly found with Asian women. Try to create the illusion of a natural eye. Highlighter under the brow bone. Shade of color used in the area to create a ‘crease’. Medium color directly placed on the lid closer to the lashes. Eyeliner may be applied extending outwards to create the effect of a larger eye.
5) ALMOND SHAPED EYES
Known as the perfect eye shape. Its top to bottom in proportion. Eyeliner can be used in any way. If you have smaller almond-shaped eyes then use lighter frosted colors. If you have larger almond eyes, you can use dark, matt colors.
6) OVERHANGING LIDS
The inner corner may be highlighted with a soft light color which can be repeated under the lower lashes. The overhanging lid area can be subtly shaded to diminish its prominence with a matt textured, deeper toned shadow. The under brow area may be highlighted to deflect interest from the overhanging lid. A stronger line of the color close to the roots of the lashes may be applied, adding vitality and definition to the eyes. Lashes may be emphasized with mascara to form a natural appearance.
7) CLOSE SET EYES
The entire orbital cavity area (eye socket) should be brought forward with a pale colored, soft textured shadow in a slightly oval shape. A winging sweep of a slightly darker shadow may be applied commencing as a fine line, broadening into a wider curve. Under the brow area it may be highlighted with a bright iridescent shadow to give a contrast of textures. The sweeping brow line can be reinforced with fine, long individual false lashes applied to the outer quarter of the lash line.
8) PROMINENT OR HEAVY LIDDED EYES
A sombre but rich shade of shadow should be applied to the upper lid to diminish the prominence of the eye. The shape of the eye may be redefined by illuminating the brow bone in the area to deflect interest from the protruding lids. This color may be reflected under the lower lashes, depending on the overall fulness of the eye in profile. Natural lash emphasis is sufficient definition as over heavy or curled lashes increase the rounded and prominent appearance of the eye.
STRUGGLING WITH PUFFY EYES?
BAGS is caused by puffy tissue. It may be disguised by using a lighter shade of foundation in the crease. A darker shade of the foundation should be applied to the puffy area to diminish their size.
DARK CIRCLES UNDER THE EYES?
These may be successfully disguised by using a white/orange concealer cream. Apply sparingly over the darker areas.
DON’T GET CONFUSED BETWEEN THE TWO. Dark circles under the eyes are very obvious. You may have a combination of both. Practice and see what method works best for you.
COLORS SUITED FOR ALL EYE COLORS AND SHAPES
Grey, taupe and browns. These are great basic shades to work with no matter what your eye color is. One exception to using browns would be for a more mature woman with grey hair. Softer tones of blues, pale grey and lavender is much more flattering in this instance. Black eyeshadow can be one of your most versatile colors depending upon the application technique employed. Don’t just think of black as just stark black, it can be used alone to create a soft smokey effect or to achieve stronger definition. It can be used under any other shade where a deeper tone is desired. *tip* Use orange/red eyeshadow to blend out black.
IRIDESCENT DUSTS (fine, loose powder)
Used in conjunction with flat/matt shadows, can achieve various degrees of pearlized effects. To active extra pearly or for softening and changing color tones, used with any of the eyeshadows, including the cream based ones. Iridescent dusts are also effective for highlighting the eyes or other areas of the face, in addiction to mixing well with blushers and lipsticks when an iridescent glow is desired.
Here are some *visual tips and ideas* on eye makeup techniques…
Hope this helped you in one way or another. Remember to look at the other ‘CLASSES’:
makeup class 3 facial shapes
makeup class 2 foundation & skin
makeup class 1 application, foundation, concealers