And we’re back….
Right, so today we are talking facial shapes.
As a makeup artist, we have to assess our clients facial shape. See what we have to shade and highlight. We all have features on our face which we would like to camouflage and/or highlight. For instance, I have an oblong face. I basically look like a giraffe. But I’m ok with it, God made them too.. hehe.. I use shading and highlighting techniques to enhance my features I like most, and hide the parts I don’t like so much.
There are 7 basic facial shapes. Just remember, people are unique. Sometimes one person can have ‘parts’ of different facial shapes all in one. So don’t be worried if you can’t figure out which one you are at first. You might be a special combo!
The forehead and jaw are generally the same width with the sides being quite angular.
Shade the ‘corners’ of the face with a darker shade of foundation/blusher/bronzer
Arch the eyebrows
Lighten the centre of the forehead and chin. This centers the eye towards the middle of your face instead of paying too much attention on your “harsh” corners.
The round face has signs of full cheeks, rounded jaw and often a round hairline.
Shade the sides of the forehead, temples and the sides of the face with a darker foundation/blusher/bronzer.
Lighten the “apples” of the cheeks, but be sure to avoid the shaded section when applying the blusher on the apples.
Place the blusher in a triangle on the cheeks to level out the eyes.
Arch the eyebrows, and shorten their length.
Prominent features will be at the corners of the forehead and jaw line.
It’s pretty much a looooong version of the square face.
Shade around the hairline and the angles of the jaw.
Shade the chin if it’s the more prominent part or the forehead if it is larger. If you’re me, both!
Place the blusher under the outer corners of the eyes and out to the hairline.
Shape fine long eyebrows. This adds ‘sections’ to the face so it won’t be seen as one long surface.
The forehead and chin are narrow and the cheek bones are wide.
Shade the sides of the face with a darker foundation/blusher/bronzer.
Lighten the temples and angles of the jaw.
Arch the eyebrows.
5) TRIANGULAR/ PEAR SHAPED FACE
The forehead is narrow and the jaw line is wider than the cheekbones.
Shade the full jaw line starting at the bottom of the ears where the chin begins.
Highlight the narrow sides of the forehead including the temples.
6) HEART SHAPED
Also referred to as the inverted triangle. The forehead is wide and the cheekbones are prominent. The jaw and chin are narrow.
Shade across the wide sides of the forehead and the angles of the jaw.
Lighten the sides of the face and chin.
Place blusher low on the cheeks and sweep upwards.
Shape fine, long eyebrows and gently arch them. Eyebrows shouldn’t have too much of an arch effect as the facial shape provides enough dimensions.
The classic, perfectly proportioned face is balanced both horizontally and vertically. The shape is known as the cream of the crop. The best of all facial shapes. Aren’t’ you just lucky?
You don’t need to hide anything. You’ve got the perfect face.
Just a little highlighting here and there and voila. Babe of note!
APPLICATION DO’S AND DONT’S
- Use clean sterilized brushes for applying contour cosmetics.
- Apply powder with a soft, rounded brush.
- Flat, square ended brushes often produce demarcation lines, which is difficult to blend in with the surrounding makeup.
- Tap excess blusher off the brush onto a tissue before applying it to the face.
- Touching your clients face too much during the makeup application.
- Have a build up of the eye shadows, blushers, powders etc on your applicators. This distorts the true color due to interference of old makeup on your brushes.
- Leave your tray, lipsticks, brushes etc on your clients lap.
- Allow her to hold her own makeup, e.g. mascara or brushes.
This invisible veil gives and overall velvety soft appearance to the skin and helps prevent that shiny build up. (Usually noticeable down the center T-zone area of the face)
A loose colourless powder with a fine translucent texture should be used for best results.
The colorless powder does not change the color of the foundation or blusher and can be used on any skin.
Using a powder brush is the only effective method of powder application.
A puff holds too much powder to be effective and a cotton ball has the tendency to leave fine threads of fuss behind.
To apply, pick up a small amounts of powder each time. Shake before brushing onto the face.
Starting at the forehead, brushing with light downward strokes over the face, covering the eyes and lips (optional).
Avoid powder build-up particularly in the eye area, as this will emphasize the tiny lines that form around the outer eye.
Too much powder will also exaggerate creepiness on more mature skin. If the powder is visible then too much has been applied or the skin has not been moisturized properly.
POWDER WHICH HAS BEEN APPLIED PROPERLY WILL HAVE THE FOLLOWING:
Smooth finished soft look
Reduction of shine caused by sebum
It won’t look dull and lifeless
Always applied over foundation
And not have a clogged appearance
WHY HIGHLIGHT AND SHADE???
Well, I’m sure some people wonder what the point of highlighting and shading is…
Well, a darker and more matte tone “hides” a surface.
A shiny surface gives off the appearance that an object is closer than it may be.
For instance, when you in a small room, you would paint it a light color to give off the effect of space.
If you have a high ceiling in a room, you will most likely paint the ceiling a darker shade to bring the room in, giving it a more cozy effect.
The principles of paint in interior decorating pretty much works the same when it comes to makeup.
Shine/highlighting – brings forward/makes it a more focal point.
Matte/shading – hides the space or can bring it in all together.
ULTIMATELY YOU’RE TRYING TO GIVE OFF THE ILLUSION OF AN OVAL FACE SHAPE.
So remember I told you in lesson 1 that this is what we were taught in makeup school and that I would add in my own opinion if need be. I agree with the corrective procedures, however practicing is key. Finding your own makeup application style is what is important. There are somethings you can’t change. You can’t apply powder before foundation. That would be silly, but some artists find it easier to first shade and highlight after foundation, yet before powder application.
Also you have to see which products you prefer using. Some artists use foundations to highlight and shade, others use powders. Some just use blushers.
Remember this: taking photos as you go along with a makeup application is important. Look at the picture, that way you’ll see if the face is coming out too white on photo or too orange. Remember eyeshadow color also usually looks different on photos taken with a flash. It’s more complicated than what most people think.
Remember to always brush off excess powder you may have applied under the eyes to prevent eyeshadow “dusting/fall out” while you applied eyeshadow.
Hope this post helped in one way or another..
If you have any questions, pop an email.
(if I have forgotten anything, I apologize! My eyes are tired and its late)
Remember to look at the other makeup ‘class’ posts: