Tag Archives: translucent powder

ESSENTIAL TOOLS FOR MAKEUP and the MUA

THE ESSENTIAL MAKEUP KIT

First and foremost, makeup should be TIMELESS!  There is no point in sticking to a style just because it’s in right now.  Yes, its important to evolve and catch up with the times, but just like in fashion, some things just never go out of fashion!

May it be that little black dress, flesh toned heels, a stylish handbag, a pearl necklace, crisp white shirt or dress and so forth.

Makeup has pretty much the same principle.  There are just certain styles or applications of makeup that will never fail us.   Just like any other profession, makeup takes practice!  Doesn’t matter how experienced a makeup artist is, there will be times we have to redo a whole look from scratch.

Lets look at the ESSENTIALS of a MAKEUP KIT:

In order to do the right makeup, a MUA needs the right tools in order to do so.  You are only as good as the tools you use!  Brushes being the most important tools for a makeup artist!

*Brushes

Are the most important tools for the MUA!

*Black mascara

To be used with a clean wand or comb on standby.  Have more than 3!  However, if you or your client have very light lashes and brows, opt for a dark brown.  Enhancing is key, not being something you’re not.

*Bicarbonate of soda

Bicarb of soda can be used as a ‘cleaning agent’.  Prep your skin with it once a week as an exfoliant.  Take a teaspoon of the soda and add a cleanser of your choice, most MUA’s love Cetaphil.  Don’t do this if you do chemical peels or you’re sunburnt.  This is just a very easy and non invasive way to exfoliate your skin if you’re a busy gal and need to just get those dead skin cells off your face.

Another great thing about bicarbonate is that you can brush your teeth with it!  Try it, you won’t believe how much ‘dirt’ it takes out of your mouth!  It kills germs and is recommended by dentists.

*Makeup primer

Primers have extra silicone and glycerin, allowing foundation to be applied smoother and more evenly.  Some schools would teach us to use a moisturizer first and follow with the primer.  However, it’s not a mess up if you used one without the other.

*Black pencil

Personally my most important tool for the eye, you can smudge with it, apply into the inner eyeline, the outer to create all sorts of looks!  Please invest in a good quality black pencil, I’ve noticed the cheaper they are, the more likely they are hard and you tend to hurt your skin!  Smoulder from MAC is just fantastic!

*Highlighter

To emphasize certain parts of the face like the brow bones, cheek bones, chin etc.

*Cream blush

Creamy blushes are great if you’re not into powder on your face.  If you don’t like to use too much makeup such as foundation or loose powder, or if you’re simply a teen, a cream blush is the way to go!  It’s definitely for the woman on the run or that makeup minimalist.  Make sure your skin is hydrated though or you’ll be on a blending mission of note.

*Eyelash curlers

If you ‘suffer’ from very straight lashes, then the eyelash curler is a must have.  Just make sure you curl your lashes before applying your mascara, as the mascara can heap up on the rubbers and can actually pull a lash off or two.  Keep it very clean!  It immediately opens your eyes up though.  Keep in clenched for about 5-10 seconds!  There are heated eyelash curlers on the market, which I have and is battery operated.  If you can, get both and see which one you prefer.  If you’re an artist, have both. Some clients are not comfortable with the usual eyelash curler.

*Translucent powder

Right, if you use this, make sure it doesn’t have titanium dioxide, as it will reflect with a camera flash.  The reason why we artists like translucent powder is because we apply a ‘thickish’ amount under the eyes when applying eyeshadow to then easily brush off the eyeshadow fall-out.

*Foundations

More than one tone for YOURSELF!  And obviously A LOT if you’re an artist!  Reason why you yourself should have more than one tone, well that’s because in winter you are lighter than you are in summer.  Plus, in the transition of the seasons, you can mix small amounts of the two for that perfect tone.

*Concealer

EVERYONE needs a concealer.  Can help with discoloration, blemishes, bags and pigmentation etc.

*Contouring creams or shadows

For shading (to build cheekbones)  Not everyone can use them and I wouldn’t suggest the normal lady to use it on a day-to-day basis, but as for you artists, LEARN how to use it!  It makes a huge difference!

*Lip gloss and lipsticks

You should have:  nude lipstick, clear lip gloss, a signature color, tinted lip gloss, a gold shimmery gloss, and of course a red lipstick!  What every you get after all these essentials are bonuses!

*Gold and silver shimmer powder (pigments)

Used to highlight the eyes, cheeks and lips.  They give that glow and can enhance features stunningly!  Gold is more for the warmer tones skins and silver is of course for the more cool-toned skins.

*Powder blush

Use if you have a powdered foundation.  Remember, powder sticks to powder and creams stick to creams!  Lips2lashes MUA Natalie Camara tip!!!  Applies to application of shadows or creams on eyes.

*Cotton pads

You can use cotton pads to apply powder, brush powder off or rest your fingers on the clients face when applying makeup.  Plus, they’re inexpensive and way more hygienic as you just throw them away after use.

*Cotton buds

Removing that ‘mistake’ you made with that eyeliner or mascara.

*Eyeshadows

So you at the testing counter and you see a shadow that you fancy.  Here is a tip, if you wipe your finger over the product and it still looks exactly the same then its great quality.  If it changes or looks slightly lighter, don’t buy it.  It only means it won’t last on your face.  Don’t use products which face from product to finger to face on a client.  Ever!  Invest in better shadows which will last the whole day!

*Tweezers

Some clients need to be pruned!  Although it isn’t really an artists job to do so, advise your client to have her brows shaped by a beautician before coming to you.  But have one, just in case.  Some clients have furry, skin toned and tiny hairs which only make themselves apparent when eyeshadow is applied!  Another tip is to get baby gum numbing gel and apply a bit onto the part you want to tweeze minutes before you do.  This will ‘numb’ the area slightly.  If its good for babies gums, it should be good for a tiny area on your brows.

*Inner white pencil/ white eyeliner

Used to make your eye look larger when applied on the inner eye, makes you look younger and slightly more awake.  Make sure it isn’t waterproof as your inner eye isn’t dry.  The only ‘waterproof’ item you should have is mascara for that bridal application.  Them brides shed tears!

*Eyebrow pencils

Use one that matches you or your clients brows!  A great tip to remember is applying a lighter shade than that of your own in the inner part of your brows, going darker on the outer parts.  This is way more natural looking and doesn’t look so harsh.

*Moisturizer

I absolutely love and adore THE BEAUTY FACTORY’S products!  You just cannot go wrong with a moisturizer from them.  (Woodlands Mall, Pretoria, South Africa)

*Makeup box

I have a MAC makeup box!  Oh how I love it!  Although, I’ll need another box pretty soon.  As an artist, you should never rock up for a job with an unorganized box or have the items thrown in a bag!  Not only does it make you look unprofessional, but you’ll take more time finding the makeup and tools than actually applying it all on your clients face!  #fail

So these are pretty much the ESSENTIALS or BASICS for a makeup artist and of course if you’re just a lover of makeup yourself.  If you are a minimalist regarding makeup, you probably won’t be buying half of these things.  But they do help at the end of the day.  

Stay tuned for more ‘classes and makeup tips’ on our blog as I will be posting more.

MuchLuv♥

Sandylashxx

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MAKEUP CLASS 3 – FACIAL SHAPES With Sandylash

And we’re back….

Right, so today we are talking facial shapes.

As a makeup artist, we have to assess our clients facial shape.  See what we have to shade and highlight.  We all have features on our face which we would like to camouflage and/or highlight.  For instance, I have an oblong face.  I basically look like a giraffe.  But I’m ok with it, God made them too.. hehe.. I use shading and highlighting techniques to enhance my features I like most, and hide the parts I don’t like so much.

There are 7 basic facial shapes.  Just remember, people are unique.  Sometimes one person can have ‘parts’ of different facial shapes all in one.  So don’t be worried if you can’t figure out which one you are at first.  You might be a special combo!

1)  SQUARE

The forehead and jaw are generally the same width with the sides being quite angular.

Shade the ‘corners’ of the face with a darker shade of foundation/blusher/bronzer

Arch the eyebrows

Lighten the centre of the forehead and chin.  This centers the eye towards the middle of your face instead of paying too much attention on your “harsh” corners.

2)  ROUND

The round face has signs of full cheeks, rounded jaw and often a round hairline.

Shade the sides of the forehead, temples and the sides of the face with a darker foundation/blusher/bronzer.

Lighten the “apples” of the cheeks, but be sure to avoid the shaded section when applying the blusher on the apples.

Place the blusher in a triangle on the cheeks to level out the eyes.

Arch the eyebrows, and shorten their length.

3)  RECTANGULAR/OBLONG

Prominent features will be at the corners of the forehead and jaw line.

It’s pretty much a looooong version of the square face.

Shade around the hairline and the angles of the jaw.

Shade the chin if it’s the more prominent part or the forehead if it is larger.  If you’re me, both!

Place the blusher under the outer corners of the eyes and out to the hairline.

Shape fine long eyebrows.  This adds ‘sections’ to the face so it won’t be seen as one long surface.

4)  DIAMOND

The forehead and chin are narrow and the cheek bones are wide.

Shade the sides of the face with a darker foundation/blusher/bronzer.

Lighten the temples and angles of the jaw.

Arch the eyebrows.

5)  TRIANGULAR/ PEAR SHAPED FACE

The forehead is narrow and the jaw line is wider than the cheekbones.

Shade the full jaw line starting at the bottom of the ears where the chin begins.

Highlight the narrow sides of the forehead including the temples.

6)  HEART SHAPED

Also referred to as the inverted triangle.  The forehead is wide and the cheekbones are prominent.  The jaw and chin are narrow.

Shade across the wide sides of the forehead and the angles of the jaw.

Lighten the sides of the face and chin.

Place blusher low on the cheeks and sweep upwards.

Shape fine, long eyebrows and gently arch them.  Eyebrows shouldn’t have too much of an arch effect as the facial shape provides enough dimensions.

7)  OVAL

The classic, perfectly proportioned face is balanced both horizontally and vertically.  The shape is known as the cream of the crop.  The best of all facial shapes.  Aren’t’ you just lucky?

You don’t need to hide anything.  You’ve got the perfect face.

Just a little highlighting here and there and voila.  Babe of note!

APPLICATION DO’S AND DONT’S

Do’s:  

  • Use clean sterilized brushes for applying contour cosmetics.
  • Apply powder with a soft, rounded brush.
  • Flat, square ended brushes often produce demarcation lines, which is difficult to blend in with the surrounding makeup.
  • Tap excess blusher off the brush onto a tissue before applying it to the face.
Dont’s
  • Touching your clients face too much during the makeup application.
  • Have a build up of the eye shadows, blushers, powders etc on your applicators.  This distorts the true color due to interference of old makeup on your brushes.
  • Leave your tray, lipsticks, brushes etc on your clients lap.
  • Allow her to hold her own makeup, e.g. mascara or brushes.
FACE POWDERS
This invisible veil gives and overall velvety soft appearance to the skin and helps prevent that shiny build up.  (Usually noticeable down the center T-zone area of the face)
A loose colourless powder with a fine translucent texture should be used for best results.
The colorless powder does not change the color of the foundation or blusher and can be used on any skin.
APPLICATION
Using a powder brush is the only effective method of powder application.
A puff holds too much powder to be effective and a cotton ball has the tendency to leave fine threads of fuss behind.
To apply, pick up a small amounts of powder each time.  Shake before brushing onto the face.
Starting at the forehead, brushing with light downward strokes over the face, covering the eyes and lips (optional).
Avoid powder build-up particularly in the eye area, as this will emphasize the tiny lines that form around the outer eye.
Too much powder will also exaggerate creepiness on more mature skin.  If the powder  is visible then too much has been applied or the skin has not been moisturized properly.
POWDER WHICH HAS BEEN APPLIED PROPERLY WILL HAVE THE FOLLOWING:
Smooth finished soft look
Reduction of shine caused by sebum
It won’t look dull and lifeless
Always applied over foundation
Transparent
And not have a clogged appearance

WHY HIGHLIGHT AND SHADE???

Well, I’m sure some people wonder what the point of highlighting and shading is…
Well, a darker and more matte tone “hides” a surface.
A shiny surface gives off the appearance that an object is closer than it may be.
For instance, when you in a small room, you would paint it a light color to give off the effect of space.
If you have a high ceiling in a room, you will most likely paint the ceiling a darker shade to bring the room in, giving it a more cozy effect.
The principles of paint in interior decorating pretty much works the same when it comes to makeup.
Shine/highlighting – brings forward/makes it a more focal point.
Matte/shading – hides the space or can bring it in all together.

ULTIMATELY YOU’RE TRYING TO GIVE OFF THE ILLUSION OF AN OVAL FACE SHAPE.

So remember I told you in lesson 1 that this is what we were taught in makeup school and that I would add in my own opinion if  need be.  I agree with the corrective procedures, however practicing is key.  Finding your own makeup application style is what is important.  There are somethings you can’t change.  You can’t apply powder before foundation.  That would be silly, but some artists find it easier to first shade and highlight after foundation, yet before powder application.
Also you have to see which products you prefer using.  Some artists use foundations to highlight and shade, others use powders.  Some just use blushers.
Remember this: taking photos as you go along with a makeup application is important.  Look at the picture, that way you’ll see if the face is coming out too white on photo or too orange.  Remember eyeshadow color also usually looks different on photos taken with a flash.  It’s more complicated than what most people think.
Remember to always brush off excess powder you may have applied under the eyes to prevent eyeshadow “dusting/fall out” while you applied eyeshadow.
Hope this post helped in one way or another..
If you have any questions, pop an email.  
(if I have forgotten anything, I apologize!  My eyes are tired and its late)
Remember to look at the other makeup ‘class’ posts:
 

 MuchLuv♥

Sandylashxx

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